How This Old-School French Perfumer Crafts Modern Fragrances Like Fine Wine

In a laboratory set amid fields of roses, perfumer Antonin Khalifé is unpacking a chunk of ambergris. The substance, which forms in the bile ducts of sperm whales, has been used in fragrances for over a millennium and is prized for the musky, woody smell it creates as it dries. It’s part of the reason that hunting whales has been illegal since 1986; by then, they’d been hunted to the point of endangering the species.

None of these is more important to the brand than its roses, which is why its CEO, Anne-Lise Cremona, relocated its operations here five years ago. In partnership with local farmers, she’s growing acres of Rosa centifolia, or May rose , and turning them into Henry Jacques’s own rose absolute. The first batch of the hyperconcentrated fragrance oil, made from flowers grown in 2023, was used to create three new fragrances that are available now—and they won’t be reissued after they’ve sold out.

The Henry Jacques Rose Trio for 2023 certainly evokes a variety of emotions. Rose Soliel is complex and spicy, redolent with notes of patchouli and sandalwood. Rose Tres Rose is very rosy, almost like you’re standing in the middle of a well-tended garden. This writer’s favorite of the three is Rose Azur, perhaps because it’s the most masculine of the set; it includes zesty citrus notes and a woody backbone that makes it smell like bottled confidence.

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