An All-American Cheese From the Atomic Age

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This all-American cheese has roots in midcentury radiation and dairy science. Only sold in one university shop, it’s a true cult classic.

Nuworld cheese is an American cult classic. Born out of nuclear research over 70 years ago, only the most devout of turophiles and science history buffs have even heard of—let alone tasted—the stuff. But despite its low profile, the wonderful weirdness of this biologically fascinating wheel makes it one worth seeking out.

Knight wondered what effect radiation might have on molds used in cheese ripening. Such a line of inquiry may sound wacky today, but Knight was the kind of enterprising mad scientist who spent his free time making cheese in beakers and pressing curds with textbooks. Postwar America was obsessed with efficiency and affordability and the dairy industry was no exception.

The next logical step was to find out if the strain could be used to make cheese. Knight pitched his newly created mold in some milk and went about the usual cheesemaking process: fermenting and coagulating, cutting curds, and pressing those curds into a wheel. Upon aging this experimental cheese, Knight found that it had all the hallmarks of a standard blue—pungent aroma, piquant flavor, and a spreadable texture—all without a single blue vein.

 

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