Italians know well that the texture of pasta matters greatly. Hence, the emphasis on cooking it until just barely al dente, or until tender, but with a pleasant chew.
We were at an understated eatery called Le Zie Trattoria, where chef/owner Anna Carmela Perrone cooks up glistening stacks of eggplant planks and creamy fava bean purees, among many great choices. But the standout is her ciceri e tria, a simple tangle of broad strips of pasta paired with chickpeas.The pasta in the dish is cooked two ways: Half is fried until crisp, tan and crunchy, almost like a wonton, while the other half is simmered directly in the sauce.
If you have trouble finding fresh pasta, use an 8.8-ounce package of dried pappardelle made with egg; the noodles are packaged in nests that are easy to break into pieces.2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, plus 1 teaspoon lemon juiceIn a large pot over medium, combine the oil and half of the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is crisp and deeply browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a medium bowl and set aside.