In Lecce, an ancient city in southern Italy, we learned the delicious joy of mixing pasta textures — some perfectly al dente, some fried in olive oil until lightly browned, nutty and wonderfully crisp. We were at an understated eatery called Le Zie Trattoria, where chef/owner Anna Carmela Perrone cooks up glistening stacks of eggplant planks and creamy fava bean purees, among many great choices.
In a large pot over medium, combine the oil and half of the pasta. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is crisp and deeply browned, 12 to 14 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a medium bowl and set aside. To the oil remaining in the pot, add the chickpeas and bay. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas darken slightly and the bay is toasted, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in the remaining pasta, ¾ cup of chickpea liquid , 2¼ cups water, 1 teaspoon salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is heated through and slightly softened, about 2 minutes.
Add the toasted pasta and cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a gentle simmer, until the untoasted pasta is al dente and the sauce lightly clings, about 4 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, then remove and discard the bay. Stir in the lemon zest and juice and parsley. Taste and season with salt and pepper. EDITOR’S NOTE: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at 177milkstreet.