Of course, there will be many who see these clothes as painfully exposing, as emphasising fragility and vulnerability, putting women’s bodies on show for other eyes – “the sex that looks and the sex that is looked at,” to borrow a phrase from the feminist film critic Margaret Walters. But that seems terribly reductive.
For Saint Laurent then – and now – transparency is aligned to liberation, for women in charge of their sexualities, their lives, comfortable in their own skin. “Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body,” said Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello evidently feels the same. And for a fashion designer today, that is a proposition that sounds pretty revolutionary.
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