Kayla Stewart is an award-winning freelance travel and food journalist. She is a columnist for the Bittman Project and Salon., culinary historian and food writer Toni Tipton-Martin defines"jubilee" as restoration, resilience, celebration, and, most of all,"the freedom to cook with creativity and joy." It’s an idea I’ve returned to again and again these last few months, on the cusp of this year’s complicated Juneteeth, as COVID-19 hasby Black Americans struggle to stay afloat.
There’s the tale of Samuel Fraunces, who owned and operated a tavern in lower Manhattan in the late 1700s, which eventually became Fraunces Tavern."Black Sam," as he was known, hosted guests like General George Washington, who delivered a farewell address to his officers at that very location. You’ll read of Chef George Crum, who invented the potato chip In Saratoga Springs, New York in 1853, after a guest at his restaurant complained that his French-fried potatoes were cut too thick.
"So much of the storyline for African Americans in the food industry revolves around those tropes, and I have been intentional about using the same practice that created the construct to disassemble it," Tipton-Martin says. African American food is not a monolith; like other cuisines, its food identity spans regions and generations. Many of the dishes inmay come as a surprise to readers, because white America has historically put Black food into such a narrow box.
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